Following up on Jpatokal’s answer. After staying for a month or so in Bali, I got stopped two times by a police control.
Each time they asked for a bribe of 200’000 IDR to let me go. The first time I only had 100’000 IDR in my wallet, they ended up accepting it. The second time I was ready with a dedicated pocket having only 50’000 IDR, and they ended up taking it. Note that each time I told them I had not the 200k the policemen were not amused, so I had to put on a act so they believed me and ended up giving up.
The first time, two cops stopped me on this epic bridge linking Sanur to the Bukit peninsula, at the toll where you pay for the fee to take the bridge, it was exactly here
There is a dedicated queue for motorbikes at the toll. And behind was 2 policemen stopping motorbikes one after another, they were doing a killing. I stopped only a few minutes and I saw them getting bribes from 2 other motorbike riders, a local and a tourist.
This is the policeman stopping motorbikes just after the toll.
This is the other policeman taking the bribe in his booth while the other one stops more motorbikes
The second time, a group of around 15 policemen were located on a main road just after a curve (close to Kuta), stopping many motorbikes, and again, stacking on illegal money from bribes.
I think it was here exactly, http://goo.gl/maps/DMQsF
The standard “on-the-spot fine” for minor and/or imaginary traffic infractions while white is Rp. 50,000. Indonesians may get away with less, the average bule will need to haggle to get even that low.
I’d advise you to reconsider renting a scooter though. First, you do need that license to drive legally, and any insurance you may have is likely invalidated by not having one. And second, the accident rates on Indonesia’s roads are pretty horrific and scooters/motorbikes are the most dangerous form of transport.
Last but not least, if you do stumble into an honest cop, you’re looking at a fine of Rp. 1 million or up to four months in jail. Road Traffic Law, sections 77 (driving without a license) and section 281 (penalties):
Setiap orang yang mengemudikan Kendaraan Bermotor di Jalan yang tidak
memiliki Surat Izin Mengemudi sebagaimana dimaksud dalam Pasal 77 ayat
(1) dipidana dengan pidana kurungan paling lama 4 (empat) bulan atau
denda paling banyak Rp1.000.000,00 (satu juta rupiah).
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